February 9 – National Bagel Day

There are several conflicting stories about the origin of bagels. Many of them credit the Poles, who created the “bajgiel.” Germans claim the word “bagel” comes from the German word “bougel,” meaning “bracelet.” Others tell of a Viennese baker who created the bread in commemoration of the victory of the Polish King Jan III Sobieski over the Turks in 1683. The baker made the bread in the shape of a “buegel” or stirrup, because the liberated Austrians had clung to the king’s stirrups as he rode by.

However bagels originated, they made their way to the United States with Jewish immigrants. In the early 1900s in New York City the International Beigel Bakers Union was founded, and bagel-making, considered a skilled trade, was restricted to union members only.

Matthew Goodman, author of Jewish Food: The World at Table, wrote:

“Every bagel that was made in New York City up until the 1960s was a union bagel — every one. The reason why this union was strong was that they were the only ones who knew how to make a proper bagel. And that was the keys to the kingdom.”

Then in the 1960’s Daniel Thompson invented an automated bagel-making machine; frozen bagels became a possibility; and the industry was transformed.

Still, there are standards. A “New York-style” bagel contains flour, water, salt, sugar (or honey or malt) and yeast. Out of all these ingredients, it is widely thought by bagel lovers that water is the key ingredient to great tasting bagels, and that it is the unique taste of tap water in New York City or Brooklyn that makes their bagels unique. Water not only is part of the recipe, but bagels are boiled in water for one to three minutes before they are baked.

Why are bagels boiled before they are baked? A book on the bagel by Maria Balinska offers an interesting theory. She believes it comes from a Polish decree in the 9th Century forbidding Jews to bake bread because of the connection between bread and the body of Jesus. But if the dough were boiled first and then baked, it no longer qualified as ‘bread” and could be made and eaten. You can read more about her theories here and here.

Joan Nathan, reviewing Balinksa’s book, reports hearing of another explanation from surviving members of the leading bagel-baking Beigel family of Krakow. They maintained:

“Jewish merchants from Krakow who traveled the countryside to sell their wares needed to take food with them to keep kosher on the road. According to Jewish law, eating bread at a meal requires a ritual washing of hands and a blessing over the food before eating. But in the countryside, that was difficult because of the risk of contracting typhus from impure water. The Beigel family, aware of this predicament, ingeniously decided to first boil the dough and then bake it, thus putting it in the category of noodles.”

Both theories lend great importance to the quality of the water. In fact, when third-generation bagel baker Steve Ross was invited to demonstrate bagel making at the 2001 Smithsonian Folklife Festival in Washington, D.C., he took all the ingredients in his grandfather’s recipe: — high-gluten flour, fresh yeast, salt, malt and 36 gallons of New York water. When the New York City Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) heard that Mr. Ross was running low, because he had “loaned” some to the pickle and herring purveyors, Russ & Daughters, DEP air lifted another 20 gallons to the Festival.

But NPR contends it is not the water per se, but the boiling:

“. . . while New York’s water does play a role in influencing bagel texture, the effect is actually pretty minor, according to the ACS [American Chemical Society]. Harder water toughens the gluten in the dough, while super soft water can make it goopy.

What’s far more critical is the boiling.”

You can even watch a video to explain it!

Interestingly, probably the main rival to New York for “best bagel” is the city of Montreal. There, they add honey to the water. Montreal bagels are crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside. [We stopped in Montreal on a recent trip to Canada just to check out the bagels. In our opinion, New York has the edge.] You can read more about Montreal bagels here.

You should also know that bagels have even made their way to outer space thanks to Canadian-born astronaut Gregory Chamitoff, who took a batch of 18 sesame seed bagels on his 2008 Space Shuttle mission to the International Space Station. From where, you may well ask? Chamitoff’s aunt has a bakery in Montreal, and his bagels came from there. The UK Independent reported that Mona Chamitoff, owner of the Original Fairmount Bagel Bakery, said they were “very flattered” her nephew had decided to take the bagels with him into space, and they he had always loved the bagels and couldn’t imagine leaving Earth for six months without them.

How best to celebrate National Bagel Day? Pick up bagels of whatever style (but please not frozen!), some “Nova” lox, cream cheese, sliced tomatoes, maybe some sliced red onions, maybe some capers, maybe some white fish, and have a treat!

***

wkendcookingThis post will be linked to this Saturday’s Weekend Cooking, hosted by Beth Fish Reads. Weekend Cooking is open to anyone who has any kind of food-related post to share: Book (novel, nonfiction) reviews, cookbook reviews, movie reviews, recipes, random thoughts, gadgets, quotations, photographs. where bloggers share food-related posts. Stop by her blog and see what’s cooking this week!

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13 Responses to February 9 – National Bagel Day

  1. BermudaOnion says:

    I’m not much of a bread person so bagels aren’t my thing – you can have my share today.

  2. Beth F says:

    I LOVE bagels. Perhaps it’s an ethnic thing or how you grew up or your proximity to a really good bakery. But I too think NYC wins for best bagels. I’ve made them myself, but I’d rather have a good NY or Philly bagel over my own.

  3. Loved reading your well researched background of the origin of the bagel. New Yorkers do seem to feel theirs are the best!

  4. Tina says:

    I did not know it was bagel day yesterday yet you know what? We went to Bruegger’s Bagels in Tallahassee and bought a sack, had two toasted with lox and cream cheese for dinner. Wonderful! That was a very informative post.

  5. mae says:

    What a wonderful research project you have done! I’ve looked at the history of bagels a bit, but never found out all these wonderful facts (and speculations). I think the history of the bagel should always have at least two chapters — first, their Eastern-European origin and place in early-to-mid-20th century Jewish-American life, and second, their late-20th century transformation from ethnic food to an all-American favorite. I realized how much the bagel’s identity had changed when I went into a bagel shop in California a few years ago and found it was owned and run by a Korean family. Your history definitely reflects both parts of the bagel’s history.

    A semi-related book is Mimi Sheraton’s “The Bialy Eaters” about a similar but quite distinct bread-like food.

    best… mae at maefood.blogspot.com

  6. jama says:

    What a wonderful post. Drooling all the way through. Loved learning more about the history of bagels (who knew there were “union” bagels?), and the importance of water in the recipe. The Montreal bagel looks anemic next to the NYC one. Hooray for bagels in outer space, too. 🙂 Thanks for a chewy read.

  7. Claudia Riley says:

    Lots of good bagel info. Growing up in Southern Calif. I was not a part of the bagel scene, and have not joined since. Give me croissants. 🙂

    • You make a good point. I’ve been reading a lot lately about studies showing that cultural background and early childhood experiences have a huge impact on food choices later in life. This article says that “a region’s dominant cuisine, be that barbecue or avocado toast, informs the meals that people eat as children. That, in turn, has a large effect on their lifelong food preferences.” I definitely was a “bagel baby” LOL

  8. Now I need a bagel… Cheers

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